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An Easier Route on Mount Foch
Timestamp Free: 2021.01.27 - 00:14:08
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges
(1 days) Elevation Gain: 1550m
Participants: Vern Dewit
Difficulty: 3: Routefinding, a long day, easy glacier or snow and exposed, loose rock to the summit. A challenging scramble or easy mountaineering objective.
A day trip up Mount Foch via an alternate route - likely part of the original first ascent route taken in 1930 by Katie Gardiner and Walter Feuz.
Long before Alan Kane added Mount Foch to his 3rd edition Scrambles guidebook, it was on my radar as a rarely done, interesting objective that likely had stunning summit views. After the new book came out and folks started paying attention to Foch, it dropped down my list - I prefer peaks that aren't too popular. In 2018 Mike and Liz scrambled the mountain giving firsthand feedback to the scrambling community. This was both a good and a bad thing. It's always good to have beta, but this beta was more of the scary kind than the enticing kind. Another friend, Doug Lutz soloed the peak via Kane's route also in 2018 and confirmed what Mike and Liz had relayed previously. Mount Foch was quickly becoming a legend in the scrambling community for all the wrong reasons. It was obviously very loose, very exposed and somewhat dangerous. The question could be asked why it was added to a general "scrambles" guidebook. So, why did I do it? Simple. It's always been on my radar - I was going to attempt this peak whether or not it was ever put in a book. (And that's true for a great deal more peaks too, just FYI.) After looking at Doug's photos and my own from Mount Sarrail, I came up with an alternate ascent route from the valley between Sarrail and Foch that looked to avoid much of the dangerous downclimbs from the false summit. I drew up the plans and they sat in my Google Drive for a few years waiting for me to try them out. When I received my signed copy of David Jones' Rockies South climber's guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada in April of this year, I looked at what he says regarding Mount Foch. Routes 53 and 54 mention the west-southwest ridge that I assume is the tail end of my route from where my ledge tops out. These routes were used by the first ascensionists - Katie...
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