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Garibaldi North East Face via Brohm Ridge
Timestamp Free: 2020.10.22 - 06:45:40
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges
  (2 days)     Elevation Gain: 1387m
Participants: Oudi Cherfi, Mike Arnold, Beata Kosciolek, Anna Kim, Shashi Shanbhag
Difficulty: 3: Route is rated AD- Ice. 50 degree, 45 m climb on the headwall was the crux. Crevasses - running belay for one snow bridge crossing early in the morning. Coming down, we were able to find an alternate route.
Garibaldi North-East face via Brohm Ridge. Camped at the first camp on Brohm Ridge. 50-degree climb past the bergschrund on the left and an easy scramble to the summit.
[photo]NorthFace.jpg[caption]Ascending the north face as the sun comes up[/photo]

Trip Planning

Last year Steve House put out an excellent series of Alpine Principles YouTube videos as part of his digital mentorship program. The first principle is "Perfect Preparation."I am a long way from applying all the sub-principles, but I will explain my approach to reviewing the route and packing light.

Garibaldi North-East Face

The first thing I did was read more about this route and get a sense of the effort required to climb it. I downloaded a KML file from Bivouac and loaded it into Google Earth to visualize the climb.

[photo]GoogleEarthView.JPG[caption]Google Earth View of the route[/photo]

Here is the view of the same route in GAIA GPS -

[photo]GAIAGPS_Bivouac.JPG[caption]GAIA GPS View of the route[/photo]

We planned to park at the gate and hike to the bivvy site (first campsite to the left in the above map) on Brohm ridge. The next day we would have an alpine start, continue on Brohm ridge, travel across Warren Glacier to get to Garibaldi's North-East Face.

Then, I searched on Instagram for the most recent pictures of Garibaldi. That's when I came across Cristian Lopez's profile. He had just done the climb, and the conditions looked good.

Packing for an Overnight Alpine Climb

Here again, I was inspired by Steve House's YouTube video, where he shares his approach to packing for an overnight climb. Here is what I packed for my climb -

[photo]Backpack_Gear_1.JPG[caption]Gear for the climb[/photo]

Bivvy gear - tarp (footprint of my 3-person tent), cord, stakes, sleeping pad and sleeping bag

Climbing Gear - Helmet, Alpine Boots, Crampons, Ice Axe, Ice Tool, 1 Snow Picket, 2 Ice Screws + V-thread tool, 1 Quick Draw, 2 Double Length...

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