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Terminal Traverse - Rogers Pass
Timestamp Free: 2021.01.17 - 13:16:40
Ranges: North America Ranges / Columbia Mountains / Selkirk Mountains / Duncan Ranges / Sir Donald Range
  (1 days)     Elevation Gain: 1800m
Participants: Jake Van Allen and Ryan Vatkin
Difficulty: 3: South ridge of terminal is rated at 5.2 but we got onto the face and I would rate it at 5.4. The rest of the climb is 3rd / 4th class.
Phenomenal route in a quiet and unique location. Includes good climbing and lesser seen views of the park.
Gear: Approach shoes / lightweight mountaineering boots, universal crampons, ice axe, 35ish meter half rope (Pika incident) and a couple small pieces and cams to Metolius size 4.

With the summer winding down we were looking for a longer trip that would take us up high but away from the crowds. We considered the West end of Cougar Valley but, after recalling the horrendous bush wack we endured the year before on that route, eventually settled on Terminal Peak as it permitted easy travel on the Perley Rock trail which, by the end of it, covered the bulk of distance and elevation gain. Basically you take the Perley Rock trail to the end then continue toward the Illicillaewet until you can go left up over the moraines. Continue up over the slabby rock until you hit the glacier.

Terminal peak is the high point on the south end of this ridge that follows the south end of Sir Donald. The peak is evident as soon as you gain enough height on the moraine to see the entire ridge. Our route would go up over the south ridge (lookers right when you see it) to the summit and then follow the ridge to "north terminal" which is the other high point on the ridge, the one that can be seen from the lower Sir Donald trail. From there we would head down the glacier and back out the way we came up.

[photo]SouthTerminal.jpg[caption]This is the first real view of Terminal Peak (south). The route goes from right to left. It was a bit hazy this day.[/photo]

[photo]GlacierFinish.jpg[caption]This is the exit glacier from afar. You cannot see the bergschrund or pitch of the slope from here.[/photo]

We left the vehicle around 0530 and got a good jump on the day. We were up to the glacier in about two hours and donned crampons for the short and relatively flat walk across the glacier to...

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