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Copper Peaks South Ridge
Timestamp Free: 2020.10.24 - 02:34:34
Ranges: North America Ranges / Columbia Mountains / Selkirk Mountains / Big Bend Ranges / Hermit Range
  (2 days)     Elevation Gain: 1500m
Participants: Jake Van Allen, Ryan Vatkin, Trent Beckham - Cross and Gemma Woods
Difficulty: 3: Graded at alpine 5.3. Accurate grading as exposure is considerable. 5.7 crack toward the end of the climb provides for extra fun for one pitch.
The beautiful South buttress of Copper Peaks is a wonderful climb on excellent rock. The position is fabulous and remote. Graded 5.3 with a 5.7 optional crack.
With one good day of weather we were looking to get something done in the pass and Copper Peaks South Buttress, based on the description from Dave Jones' Rogers Pass Alpine Guide, was the obvious choice.

Trent and Gemma went in from Bostock parking earlier on Friday than Ryan and I and headed up through the bush as per the directions in the Alpine Guide. We did not find out until the next morning but their entry was less than ideal as they bivvied somewhere around the south ridge of McGill. Apparently this was due to a combination of bad route finding and overgrown bush. Ryan and I opted to hike to Bostock Pass, camp, and then traverse over to Copper Peaks in the morning. This is a circuitous route but based on the bushwack we did out, preferable (6 hours in all). Bostock trail is an easy hike with gradual elevation gain. Not overly memorable but easy walking. We all met up Saturday morning and had a chuckle about our approach

[photo]SouthButtressandCamp.jpg[caption]Camp spot with the climbing ridg behind. Bliss.[/photo]

[photo]SouthRidgefromEast.jpg[caption]This is the ridge from the East. The climbing is as good as it looks[/photo]

We began climbing mid morning and moved quickly up the buttress staying close together to avoid rockfall issues. The climbing is superb, with excellent exposure and good rock. It was one of those days that I did not want to end. There are a couple of steps and on the second, we elected to climb the 5.7 crack rather than the exposed 5.3 move on climbers left. It was a nice sunny day and we were in no rush to summit. After pitching out the crack it was easy going to the summit where we hung out and took in the views to the South, which included fantastic vistas of Smart Peak, Bonney and some of the lesser known peaks of the...

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