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Cond Peak via Southern Slopes
Timestamp Free: 2020.08.11 - 22:08:20
Ranges: North America Ranges / Columbia Mountains / Selkirk Mountains / Slocan Ranges / Kokanee Range
  (1 days)     Elevation Gain: 650m
Participants: Kieran Simpson, David Lussier, Gerrad Tuttle, Jeremy Davidson, Dan Bairos
Difficulty: 4: Short-roped from just below col to summit as it got steep. Snow from about 2100m and up, with a hard snowpack up higher, we requred an ice axe and crampons from about 2600m (a bit below the col) to the summit.
Ascending the southern side of the mountain aiming for a col to the right of Cond. After reaching the col, scramble left up the short exposed ridge to the summit.
As part of a Mountaineering course with Summit Mountain Guides we set up camp at the old Molly Gibson Mine site (around 2155m elevation) on the night before the climb. We were almost directly south, below Cond peak at our campsite.

[photo]DSC09120.JPG[caption]Our camp at the Old Molly Gibson Mine site. Looking South towards the North face of Grays peak[/photo]

Leaving camp at 6am, we put crampons on very early, as the night had been very cold and the snow had froze. We started by going left from our campsite so we could switch back to the right and gain the bench above our camp. From there, we climbed along the same slope for most of the way. Near 2480m we traversed back left to follow the more mellow slope.

After going right around a rock patch around 2600m, we roped up. Following along the top of a small corniced ridge, we climbed directly up, slightly right of the Cond peak summit. the easier route would probably be to traverse more right to the small col between Cond and Kokanee Peak, but we chose to stay in the snow and climb the area about 200m left of the col where the snow climbed the highest.

We reached the Cond ridge at about 2760m, 200m or so from the summit, which was on climber's left. We stayed roped up in our team of 5 and scrambled to the summit. It took us about 4 hours to reach the summit from camp.

After breaking at the summit for some snacks and photos we climbed down on to Kokanee Glacier and traversed across to the Keyhole trail on the Northwestern side of Esmeralda Peak. (We climbed Esmeralda two days later). There was still lots of snow on the glacier with no obvious crevasses. Small cracks in the snow were starting, but nothing of worry.

[photo]IMG_6843.jpg[caption]Looking back at Kokanee Glacier and Cond peak (left center)...

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