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1973 attempt on Razorback
Timestamp Free: 2020.06.04 - 20:44:36
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges
  (7 days)
Participants: Dave Tucker, Doug McKeever, Patty Whitcomb, Bob Bradshaw, Kreig McBride, Wayne McLemore
Difficulty: 4: Bushwhacking up trail-less Razor Creek is quite arduous. Once on the ascent above 'Dirty Sock Lake' the route is on scree, ice or snow to the 7900' ridge crest between Mullen N2 and Razorback W2. The ridge from there is a talus walk but gets increasing rotten. We turned back 200' below the summit due to teetering rocks guarding the ridge crest. No specialized gear needed.
Unssuccessful ascent via Razor Creek from Bluff Lake Road, then up scree, ice and snow to ridge crest, then ascend on ridge toward the summit on talus and rotten rock.
[photo]Razorbackfromturnaround.jpg[caption]The final 200 feet of Razorback along the west ridge. An unbelievably youthful Tucker holds a sketch of Queen Bess, 22.5 miles (36 km) to the south. D. McKeever photo.[/photo]

We made this attempt prior to the successful first ascent of Mullen a few days later. We bushwhacked up Razor Creek about 10 miles (took two days) to a base camp at the un-named lake at 5400' below the north face of Mullen. (we called it 'Dirty Sock' because, well, we used that lake!) From the lake, we hiked up the tributary running into the east side of the lake into a broad glaciated basin beneath what is now called 'Mullen N2' but we called 'Chicken Noodle Ridge' [photo]ChickenNoodleRidge.jpg[caption]Tottering towers south of basin east of 'Dirty Sock Lake. D. McKeever photo[/photo] because of the tottering towers all along the skyline. This basin sports a couple of rock glaciers. We bivied in the 7900' saddle east of Mullen N2. The views to the south from here were inspiring. Ottarasko dominated. [photo]OttaraskofromRazorback.jpg[caption]North face of Ottarasko Peak. D. McKeever photo[/photo] The next day we walked up the ridge eastward toward Razorback. The rock became less solid and more thinly bedded. It was largely shale but is pretty broad and easy as far as 'Razorback W2', which we climbed. This might be the earliest recorded ascent, unless Hall and Fuhrer went this way in 1931. It was trivial but is now dignified with a name so will add a note on that page too, I guess. We went another 3/4 mile east on increasingly loose rock on a narrowing ridge before we called it quits on a 10'000 foot knob .3 mile SW of the summit. The knife-edge ridge from this point to the top was just so rotten and dangerous looking, and we had other things on...

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