Bivouac.com   Trip Page   Home     Help   Index     Login
First Ascent of Mount Mullen. August 1973
Timestamp Free: 2020.06.04 - 20:39:58
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges
  (5 days)
Participants: Dave Tucker, Doug McKeever, Bob Bradshaw, Patty Whitcomb, Kreig McBride, Wayne McLemore
Difficulty: 4: Thick brush in Razor Creek, and old burns with fallen trees piled high. Route to the col was easy glacier travel. Ridge itself presented no difficulties other than minor scrambling over rotten rock and exposure. Glacier gear. No technical rock gear needed.
This is the first public posting of this first ascent. Sorry BCMC 1980 party. Cross country mountaineering, glacier travel and ridge scrambling. We named it 'Bulgur' because we ate so much of it.
[photo]BulgursummitOttaraskotosouth.jpg[caption]Summit of Mullen. August 14, 1973. Ottarasko Mountain to south. McBride, McKeever, Tucker, McLemore. McKeever photo[/photo]

[photo]7300map3.JPG[caption]The topo map we used to get to Bulgur Peak[/photo] Written in 2020 from my log book. We left vehicles at a cabin near the mouth of Razor Creek, just off the Bluff Lake Road at around 51 42.634'N 124 48.574'W. We took two days to bushwhack south up Razor Creek to the un-named lake at 5400'. [photo]NfaceBulgurandcabinatlakeoutlet.jpg[caption]View of 'Bulgur' (Mullen) from lake outlet. Roof of old trapper cabin on right. Hanging glacier above the cabin. McKeever photo[/photo] This is at least 10 miles, almost entirely trail-less [we did pick very short overgrown bits of the abandoned trap trail that ran to the cabin at the lake in the 1930s]. Hike along the east margin of the lake about 1 mile to the 'Razor Glacier' at the lake head [in 1973 the glacier ended in the lake. We ascended the glacier (it really was a glacier then) about 1.5 miles to the base of the hanging glacier on the below the West Ridge. We tried to climb this to the ridge crest but were turned back by exceeding rotten gully right at the top. [photo]BulgurbelowNWhangingglacier.jpg[caption]below the ice fall in the hanging glacier. McKeever photo[/photo] We returned to the main glacier and climbed west to the prominent 7600' col 2.25 miles and 2000' vertical from the lake. From here ascend the west ridge 2300' vertical on snow or easy scrambling on loose rock. [photo]Bulgurwestridge.jpg[caption]On the west ridge, summit in view. McKeever photo[/photo] The summit when we were there was boulders protruding through...

To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)