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Outpost Peak - North Ridge
Timestamp Free: 2020.07.14 - 23:38:36
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges
  (1 days)     Elevation Gain: 1000m
Participants: Peter and Vito
Difficulty: 5: Moderate alpine rock climbing
North Ridge of Outpost to East Ridge of Memorial
This was done during a trip to the Wates-Gibson to do climbing in the Ramparts. The weather during the summer of 2019 wasn't the best in the Canadian Rockies, but we managed one day of climbing. Beta online for the Ramparts is quite slim, and the best guidebook is Rockies West by David Jones. The Ramparts in a nutshell:

Pros: Offers great alpine climbing on quartzite with many of the ascents requiring glacier and rock and no crowds.

Cons: Wetter then other areas in the Rockies, horrible mosquitoes, and longer drive from Calgary.

Ascent: From the Wates-Gibson there is a well defined trail on the west side (outhouse side) of the hut that gets you into the Fraser Glacier cirque. Head up the moraine and branch off left aiming for the North Ridge of Outpost. The North Ridge is hard to miss and is quite aesthetic. Some loose scrambling gets you to the base where you can rope up. We simul-climbed the whole ridge and found it consistent in that 5.5-5.6 range. There are a couple distinct benches on the ridge, allowing for a comfortable place to swap gear and hang out with your partner. Top out on the ridge and scramble over the to the summit of Outpost.

Descent: The easiest way to get down is to scramble over to the slightly higher Memorial Peak. We squeezed in between the rock and glacier that forms the col between Outpost and Memorial. Some fun and easy climbing on the east ridge of Memorial (done un-roped) gets you to the summit of Memorial. From the summit of Memorial you can get good looks at the climbs on Erebus, Bennington, McDonnell and Simon. Take the West Ridge of Memorial all the way back down to the Fraser Glacier cirque. Hang out in the cirque to avoid the mosquitoes lower down at Outpost Lake.

The Ramparts should get more attention from people down...

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