[photo]DSC06790.jpg[caption]The summit and the SE ridge. Photo Birgit Rogalla[/photo]
We went started off wrong and figured that out when we arrived at the wrong lake. Luckily it was connected to the correct drainage, and we followed the creek up the valley with surprising difficulty: plenty of microterrain that was confusing in the fog. We walked a few unnecessary circles and put our ice axes to good use on a hard steep snow slope, then scrambled up onto the ridge and out of the clouds. From there we followed roughly the height of land to the summit and had good views of Cayoosh, Joffre, and Matier poking up into the sun.
[photo]DSC06799.jpg[caption]Looking S and W from the summit. Photo Birgit Rogalla[/photo]
On the way down it cleared a little and it was obvious how much we'd gone off route. In particular, the route described in Matt Gunn's scrambles book is wrong (or at least, unnecessarily difficult and indirect). He describes walking up the "mini valley" and the crossing a snow slope to gain the ridge by scrambling up climber's left at the valley's head. In fact, it's much easier to avoid the snow slope and scramble up the center of the valley along a leftward-trending bench under the cliffs (see attached rough GPS route indicating the easier way to go; click "Download From Waypoints: GPX", above).
The way down was much faster because we were able to... To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
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