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Caltha Peak and Mt Skook Jim
Timestamp Free: 2020.09.25 - 04:12:58
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Lillooet Ranges
  (9 days)
Participants: 4
Difficulty: 3: easy scrambling; loose rock
A description of two peaks, which was part of an extended 9 day trip in the area.
This short trip report is about a portion of an extended Stein Traverse in mid-August 2019. It's a stunning area with beautiful lakes and some impressive glaciers beyond Skook Jim, but here I describe only the technical aspects of the trip relating to two summits along the way.

Mt Skook Jim:

Our group of four approached Mt Skook Jim along the ridge SE of Figure Eight Lake and camped beside a small tarn with a pocket glacier calving into it. This tarn is situated just NW of (and above) the large lake just east of Vanguard Peak at 50.1190,-122.2494 that is shown incorrectly or not at all on most maps. This area is shown as being glacier on 1:50K maps. But satelite view shows the lake. Maybe it was only recently created as glaciers receded?

[photo]DSC06352.jpg[caption]Lake under Mt Skook Jim. Photo Birgit Rogalla.[/photo]

Directly N of the large lake, a boulderfield led us down to the shore. It was surprisingly easy to skirt around the N and E sides of the lake and climb to the base of the subtle ridge that we followed from the S end of the lake to the col immediately S of the peak. We bypassed a steep-looking section of rock partway up by traversing N before walking up a very short section of ice (crampons on), but we don't know whether this detour was necessary. There was a short section of mellow snow just below the ridge, and the rock was extremely loose and crumbly, but on the whole the ascent was straightforward (easy class 3). From the ridge, it is easy to walk N to the summit itself.

Caltha Peak:

We climbed Caltha Peak from Figure Eight Lake. It an easy scramble up the S face. However, we descended from Caltha Peak along the E ridge to a hidden ramp at 50.1450, -122.2656 that led us into the N bowl. The ridge has a few scrambly steps, but the...

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