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Mount Tuzo from Neil Coghan Hut
Timestamp Free: 2020.07.10 - 11:23:23
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges / Bow Range
  (3 days)     Elevation Gain: 1370m
Participants: Allan Main, Chuck Young, Mike Dodge
Difficulty: 3: Essential skills: glacier travel, rock scrambling, rappelling
from Neil Coghan hut, descending north snow couloir of Mt Allen, following SE ridge to Tuzo summit
Mountaineering lists can be treacherous things. They often start out as a wish list of peaks and routes, but can morph into a demanding voice that won`t leave you alone. They can be as short as a post-it note or a long scroll of optimism.

In September 2009, Chuck Young and I completed ascents of all the summits which create the Lake Louise amphitheater. We noticed at that point there weren`t too many summits left for the Moraine Lake amphitheater, so that became our next list. In July, we completed our tour of the Moraine Lake summits. Mount Tuzo had the honour of being the last peak our boots stood upon, and it seems likely that that was because it was the hardest one to access!

Everyone we talked to didn`t know a whole lot about Tuzo, except the peaks in the area are renown for crappy Rockies rubble. The most certain route plods up Prospector`s Valley to Kaufmann Lake, then up the scree slope. From the Neil Coghan Hut (NC), there is a route that runs around the south side of Mount Allen and traverses the mindless scree on the west side to reach Tuzo's SE ridge. When we were at NC a few years ago, I noticed an enormous prominent gendarme perched on the N edge of Allen. Maybe, just maybe, there was a ledge that would run along there. The only way to find out was to go 'put our noses against it'.

At 06:05 on July 22, Mike Dodge, Chuck and I reached the Moraine Parking Lot Zoo, but we didn't get a parking spot until 06:35! We reached the hut via the Perren route and spent a lazy afternoon before bedding down early. Starting at 05:30 we didn't need crampons and within 1 hour covered the glacier to reach the low point (552827) in the S ridge of Mount Perren. After some discussion we climbed up the broken ground and ledges of Allen's NE ridge, but were unable to...

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