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Many Ways to Meslilloet
Timestamp Free: 2020.07.10 - 11:58:32
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges
  (3 days)     Elevation Gain: 2500m
Participants: Klaus Haring
Difficulty: 3: Some exposed scrambling, glacier travel
Exploring several routes to Meslilloet Mountain. Report has links to individual trips.
After rereading Jason Addy's excellent Meslilloet story I wanted to look at my report and found that I never wrote anything up. So I looked at my map and slides and calender diaries to refresh my memory. When I first heard that Meslilloet Mountain supported the closest glacier to Vancouver I was intrigued by its remoteness and relative low elevation. Later when I got the first edition of the 1:50 000 Pitt River map sheet it showed no logging roads, but I knew that one could drive to the Pinecone Lake area. I thought it would be most suitable as a ski approach and plotted a ski route along the high ridges from there. Still it was a few years till I made my first exploration of an approach to Meslilloet Mountain.

At first I wanted to make just one report, but that became too long, so I split it into several mini reports in order to add detailed waypoints.

Part 1 1981.10.11 In October 1981 I made my first exploration of the approach from the Mamquam valley to the NW. See A climb of Dunkeld Peak near Meslilloet

Part 2 1981.10.17 The next weekend I went to explore the start of my originally planned ski route, mostly to check how much snow had melted in a few sunny days. See Climbing Mount Gillespie from the West

Part 3 1981.10.23

After another week of mild indian summer weather I decided conditions should be suitable for the big climb. I took Friday off work and drove over Stawamus Pass into Indian River Valley. I found the Meslilloet spur smooth easy driving and parked at a spur SW of Dunkeld Peak. I hiked up the sideroad to the NW then north and east to its end. From there up a short clearcut into old growth. The forest was only moderately steep and fairly open most of the way and I soon came into the sub alpine. It was a lot easier...

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