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A Climb of Justy Peak
Timestamp Free: 2020.03.30 - 23:49:56
Ranges: North America Ranges / Columbia Mountains / Monashee Mountains
  (1 days)     Elevation Gain: 1300m
Participants: Helen Sovdat, Kevin (guides), Klaus Haring and 6 others
Difficulty: 3: Moderately difficult glacier and rock approach.
A fairly easy day trip from base camp.
This summer the Alpine Club held their General Mountaineering Camp near Hallam Peak in the Norther Monashees. The summit is a fairly difficult rock tower with a long glacier approach. With 1500m elevation gain it seemed a bit out of range for me. Also I had forgotten my headlamp, so thought the 4am starts would be out of question for me. Later during the week I realized that it was getting light enough at 4am and the 100m lower east peak might be suitable for me, but by that time the False Hallam was not on the schedule anymore. So on the last day I signed up for Justy Peak, which went up the same route most of the way. [photo]P1090122.JPG[caption]A tele photo of a party heading to Hallam earlier in the week[/photo]

In the middle of the night I dreamed I heard my name called from the distance. I wondered whether that was the wake up call and whether anybody would check whether I was awake. By that time I was awake and saw that I was still darker than at 4 am. I had forgotten to keep my pen light handy to check my watch. I then stayed awake for quite a while and it didn't get lighter. When I eventually fell asleep I didn't hear my wake up call and my tent mate had to shake me awake. [photo]P1090138.JPG[caption]A hazy sunrise on the lower moraine[/photo]

We then started walking at 5am sharp in bright daylight. Helen set a good slow pace up the steep lower moraine. Above that an easy trail followed a small creek paralleling the lateral moraine and the pace picked up. We topped the upper moraine shortly after 6am, then traversed a shallow bowl to two small moraines paralleling the glacier. There our speed luckily slowed down as the guides made excellent steps in the steep bare ice. We would hardly have needed crampons. [photo]P1090143.JPG[caption]On the middle...

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