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Early climbs of Mount Garibaldi
Timestamp Free: 2018.07.22 - 07:40:53
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges
(2 days) Elevation Gain: 1000m
Participants: Peter Alig, Roger Richmond, Klaus Haring
Difficulty: 3: Steep scrambling on summit tower.
Several climbs on different routs
Shortly after I came to Vancouver Mount Garibaldi being the highest peak near Vancouver came to the top of my most wanted list even though it was a bit beneath me since I had already climbed 3000 and 4000m peaks in Europe. But I was intrigued that a relatively low mountain sported such large glaciers. In the Alps only a few peaks below 3000m had small glaciers and those were already melting rapidly even then. I had started with ski mountaineering, but with little access to high altitude here that was not practical in early summer, so I made my first reconnaissance from a weekend hike to Black Tusk meadows. In those days the only map available was the 1:250 000 Vancouver sheet 92G. With 500 foot contours the mountains all looked quite mellow, Mount Price little more than a hill. I envisioned walking over gentle alpine meadows to the Warren Glacier. However my first view of Mount Price was nothing like I had expected. This was a real mountain with complex topography. A few minutes later in the rugged lava flow I was confronted with a hostile geology I had never encountered in the Alps. I knew little about geology then, but suspected the area might be volcanic. In any case, without a trail it quickly became apparent that this was not a day trip approach to Mount Garibaldi.
[photo]img581.jpg[caption]My first time camping I had a heavy, bulky canvas tent.[/photo]
So after a freezing night in my European hut sleeping bag I limped home with terminal blisters because I had been wearing too thin socks in my new hiking boots. It had also been my first encounter with the voracious mosquitoes and black flies of this country. All together an experience to put you off for ever. But it didn't.
[photo]img592.jpg[caption]Diamond Head chalet at night[/photo]
My next attempt was...
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