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Climbing Divine and Phantom Peak
Timestamp Free: 2019.06.16 - 14:11:35
Ranges: North America Ranges / Columbia Mountains / Selkirk Mountains / Duncan Ranges / Albert Range
  (1 days)     Elevation Gain: 800m
Participants: Sam McKoy(guide),ca 6 ACCers, Klaus Haring
Difficulty: 2: Steep snow on Divine, exposed scrambling on Phantom Peak
Climbing 2 fairly easy peaks.
Divine Peak was one of the easiest climbs and supposed to be a partial restday. We started out along the gravel flats south of camp. The area had been deglaciated quite recently and there were only a few widely scattered plants. The map I had downloaded for my GPS still showed our campsite under a lobe of the glacier coming from the west. Only one map I saw showed part of Victoria Lake and all maps still show the glaciers at the head of the valley flowing together. [photo]P1070102.JPG[caption]Approaching the lake Outlet[/photo] [photo]]P1070104.JPG[caption]Victoria Lake with Divine above[/photo]

Below the outlet of Victoria Lake is a small gorge with slabs too steep to traverse, so we had to climb about 30m above to find easier ground, then dropped down to the lake shore. At the end of the lake we made a small detour to the terminus of the Justice Glacier. There was a fragile ice arch, probably a remnant of an ice cave. It reportedly had collapsed a few days later. [photo]P1070106.JPG[caption]The arch at the terminal of the Justice Glacier[/photo]

We then continued up along the edge of the glacier. The ice surface was very coarse and gave good traction. A narrow band of snow was also firm enough for easy walking. Then we had to go quite a distance over gravel to reach the upper glacier. There we had a longer rest to explore the cave at the terminus. It was not a smooth tunnel, more like a collapsed crevasse. It was easy to climb down on one side, while on the other one could wriggle out along a slanting crevasse. Only Sam and I believe one other member did that. [photo]P1070108.JPG[caption]Phantom Peak from below the upper glacier[/photo]

The snow on the glacier then was soft enough we didn't need crampons for the steepest part. Sam kicked steps in a big...

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