Trip Page   Home     Help   Index     Login
One Day Ascent of Woolley, Diadem and Mushroom Peak
Timestamp Free: 2020.03.31 - 16:27:45
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges / Winston Churchill Range
  (3 days)     Elevation Gain: 2000m
Participants: Ben N, Steven S, Vern D
Difficulty: 4: Glacier travel, steep snow and ice couloirs to 40 degrees and loose rock with exposure.
A mountaineering trip up two 11,000ers and a neighboring 10,500' peak in one long day from the Woolley / Diadem bivy site.
Steven, Ben and I spent a few days in early September 2014 in the Woolley / Diadem area, just north of the Columbia Icefield in Jasper National Park. I approached the bivy site on Thursday and spent the first night there solo, a wonderfully relaxing afternoon and night despite doing fierce battle with an aggressive pack rat (I won BTW).

Steven and Ben came up on Friday morning, and we spent the rest of the day slogging over Woolley Shoulder and signing Little Alberta's summit register for only the 9th recorded ascent in over 34 years. While the views and the experience of visiting this incredible area of the Rockies was undeniably excellent, the fact that we did well over 2000 meters of height gain and many kilometers of hiking seemed a wee bit silly, given that we were planning to summit two 11,000ers the very next day. Oh well. Being young and fit has its advantages I suppose. Youth only covers the other two guys, I'm still not sure what my excuse is!

Early on Saturday, September 6th 2014 we awoke to a star-filled sky and made preparations for our long day ahead. There was talk of adding Mushroom Peak into the mix if there was enough time but we didn't fully expect that this would happen.

We were going to do the route that's usually recommended later in the season, crossing the east glacier to the first couloir on Diadem before climbing it to a permanent snow patch on it's left side. From there we'd cross the snow to rock and then traverse over ledges to the second couloir, about 150 vertical meters higher than our exit from the first one. The second couloir would be climbed for another 150 vertical meters before we would exit above the seracs coming down the main Woolley Glacier. From there we would either side-slope scree slopes on Diadem, or follow...

To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)