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Little Alberta from the Woolley / Diadem Bivy
Timestamp Free: 2018.09.26 - 03:56:25
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges / Winston Churchill Range
  (3 days)     Elevation Gain: 2000m
Participants: Steven S, Ben N, Vern D
Difficulty: 3: Most difficulties are involved with the approach over rugged and remote terrain including glacier travel to the Lloyd MacKay hut over Woolley Shoulder.
A very wild and remote scramble in one of the most scenic areas of the Alberta Rockies.
The Plan

For my last weekend off at the end of the summer holidays in 2014, I was joined by Ben and Steven for a shot at some peaks in the Woolley / Diadem area just north of the Columbia Icefield in Jasper National Park. Obviously Woolley and Diadem were the main objectives for us, but we also had some other summits in mind - naturally!

In May of 2012 I took a photo of Twins Tower with a party inching it's way to the summit. This is one of my favorite photos and hangs above my kitchen table in a glorious black and white 24x48 inch panoramic print.

[photo]panotwinstower.jpg[caption]Twins Tower from North Twin Col[/photo]

One thing I noticed right away while staring at this photo as I sat at the kitchen table was an easy looking route to the summit of Little Alberta, the peak just to the east (right) of Mount Alberta in the photo. I couldn't get this summit out of my head, I figured the views from it must be absolutely mind blowing considering it's massive neighbors. The mountains around Little Alberta include 7 impressive 11,000ers and others including;

  • Mount Alberta
  • Mount Woolley
  • Mount Engelhard
  • Mount Cromwell
  • Stutfield NE2
  • Stutfield Peak
  • Twins Tower
  • Son of a Twin
  • North Twin
  • King Edward

    The Mountain

    After approaching the bivy site the night before by myself, I had time to relax and have a leisure breakfast (bacon and eggs, if you can believe it) before Ben and Steven finally poked their heads over the final rise of the approach trail to our bivy site on Friday morning around 10:00. After setting up their tents it was time to decide what to do with the rest of our day. We had three choices. Woolley and Diadem were relatively free of clouds but had quite a bit of fresh...

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