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Spring Ascent of Mount Marlborough
Timestamp Free: 2018.06.20 - 20:32:10
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges
  (1 days)     Elevation Gain: 1640m
Participants: Steven S, Ben N, Vern D
Difficulty: 3: Steep snow or scree, some exposure to the summit. Avalanche potential if snow on route.
After climbing Mount Joffre, we spent the next day ascending Mount Marlborough from our bivy.
To Aster Lake / Bivy

Start hiking on Three Isle Lake Trail, then branch south on the Aster Lake Trail and climb up to Aster Lake Campground at treeline. (2300m). This has about 5 camp spots. Either camp here, or hike around the corner of Mount Marborough, to camp on the exposed glacial flats, above treeline (permits required and can be hard to procure).

Ascent of Marlborough

After a perfect day on Mount Joffre I woke up the team at 03:30 on Sunday morning for an attempt at my 400th peak - Mount Marlborough. We packed up camp under a clear, cool sky and soon found ourselves under the approach gully up the north west side of the mountain. The snow was fairly hard, but there was a punchy crust if you went looking for it. We knew that we had to get up and down the steep south face to the upper ridge before the morning sun started to hit it. There was recent avy debris in the upper bowl so we knew that parts of the slope wanted to slide.

We dumped most of our gear on a rock island near the bottom of the gully and started shoeing up. The approach was perfect. A narrow gully led easily up to the upper bowl where we could see our route steepening significantly. It's always fun scoping out a new route on the fly with no idea if it'll actually go or not. Steven mentioned that maybe we should swap crampons for our snowshoes but I was a bit concerned about punching through the crust and said the shoes would probably go right up to the north west ridge. (Should have listened to Steven on that one...)

[photo]marlborough102.jpg[caption]Looking back at Ben and Mount Northover as we start up the west gully.[/photo]

[photo]marlborough103.jpg[caption]Looking up the gully to the summit still high above us.[/photo]

As we...

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