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Mount Farbus from the Lyell Hut
Timestamp Free: 2020.02.26 - 05:49:52
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges
(1 days) Elevation Gain: 1500m
Participants: Steven S, Vern D
Difficulty: 3: General glacier mountaineering.
A remote ramble up the obscure Farbus Mountain from the Lyell Icefield.
After two long, exhausting days spent scrambling to the Lyell Hut, climbing four of the five Lyell peaks and even Arctomys Peak, we were feeling a bit burnt out on Sunday morning, June 28th. See road Lyell Hut Trail. The night before, we'd come to the conclusion that getting up early enough to attempt Lyell IV (Walter Peak) was simply not going to happen - and it wouldn't have mattered on hindsight because the snow was a giant slurpee over night anyway, rendering the summit ridge treacherous. Ben wasn't feeling like more peak bagging under the hot conditions we were getting, and was going to spend the day relaxing around the hut. Steven and I were on our own to attempt either Lens Peak or Farbus Mountain. There were hints in the hut register that Lens Peak wasn't too technical, but we really didn't know anymore details. The only route we saw involved pretty steep snow climbing on a south couloir before hopefully connecting with a snow ridge to the summit. Given the extremely warm temperatures and very hot forecast, we didn't really want to be on steep south facing snow slopes.
That left Farbus. So Farbus it would be. Peakbaggers don't like to sit around huts when there's perfectly attainable virgin summits to be tagged!
Farbus Mountain was essentially unknown to me when Steven first suggested it. He'd read (and memorized?) the Rick Collier/R. Tivy trip (see Lyell-Forbes Ski Traverse), and remembered they bagged Farbus on skis with few issues. We knew that part of the Great Divide Traverse ski route comes up the Alexandra Glacier / icefall to the Farbus / Ernest col before coming over the Ernest / Edward col and then down the main Lyell Glacier. We also knew that this glacier was rumored to be heavily crevassed and is one of the...
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