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Climb of Turton Peak (The Fin)
Timestamp Free: 2018.02.20 - 04:45:59
Ranges: North America Ranges / Yukon Ranges / Wrangell Mountains
  (3 days)     Elevation Gain: 1125m
Participants: Scott Hamilton Peters, Kristin Arnold, Ben Iwrey, Ed McCord
Difficulty: 5: AK Grade II+. Straightforward route finding, moderate crevasse danger, pure snow climb, 2 tools recommended in icefall, crampons in icefall and ridge traverse, pickets/ice screws needed. Technical section is icefall and summit ridge cornice traverse.
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[photo]SummitCorniceTraverse.jpg[caption]describe photo here[/photo]

 This report describes a climb of Turton Peak, which is the 3411m peak in Alaska.

DAY 1 After waiting four days in McCarthy for a weather window, we were flown to the base of Peak 11,191' by renowned pilot Paul Claus of Ultima Thule on June 04, 2015. Estimated elevation between 7,400 to 7,500'. We cached a reserve supply of food and fuel at the LZ, rigged the sleds and spied our objective which from our vantage point the summit resembled the dorsal fin of a fish, thus nicknaming our peak "The Fin". [photo]TurtonPeak.jpg[caption]Turton Peak from landing area[/photo]

We exited the landing area proceeding SE to gain a gentle ramp trending SW to a shelf well below a prominent serac. We established high camp on a broad, relatively flat area on this shelf right of a crevasse field and ice cliff and left of the debris path of the serac area. Elevation estimated around 9,100'.
 

DAY 2 From high camp, we climbed in a generally SE direction circumnavigating crevasses. At about 10,000', the weather dramatically deteriorated, whiteout conditions persisted and our two rope teams lost visual contact and became separated. We searched and found the tracks of the lead rope team but eventually they faded into blank snow. We built a 3 sided snow wall shelter and hunkered down. We ultimately re-connected after about 45 minutes and headed down to high camp to wait out the storm.

DAY 3 The following morning the storm abated somewhat, so we started our second summit attempt. We repeated the previous days route and passed our last high point and negotiated past the large serac located at about 10,200'. We turned in a SW direction at about 10,300' to 10,400' and followed the path...

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