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Mt Assiniboine Summit: lucky weather window
Timestamp Free: 2019.09.23 - 12:01:44
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges
  (3 days)     Elevation Gain: 1438m
Participants: Manouane Deschenes and Helen Weiss
Difficulty: 5: Up to 5.6.Mostly scrambling on rotten rock. Can require crampons if verglas on the route.
From Assiniboine lodge, 3.5 hours to the Hind Hut, the 6 hours to the summit and 7h hours back to hind hut, and another 3.5 hours to descend the Gmoser ledges to the campground.
[photo]Studyingtheroute.jpg[caption]Studying the route[/photo]

WARNING: the waypoints in this report are approximate and should not be expected to be a precise navigation tool (except for the known points of the lodge and hut and mountain summit).

We left North Vancouver on August 13 around 7am arrived in the evening at the ACC Club House. We spent one night there and we stored climbing gear and extra clothing in their lockers downstairs. On Sunday the 14th, we drove to our heli lift from Canmore to the Mt Shark Heli pad. It took 45 minutes on good paved and gravel roads. The heli lift took about 15 minutes, with good views of our objective. We left Assiniboine lodge with a light pack of climbing essentials at 3pm and reached Hind Hut at 6:30 pm on August 14th. [photo]HindHut.jpg[caption]Hind Hut[/photo]

There we met with 2 very nice mountaineers who boiled water for us and played cards with us. We set out together at 4:50am on Monday Aug 15. We reached the summit at lunch time. We shared a rope for a few sections at and above the red band, with the most intimidating move at the Grey Band. We used smaller cams and nuts, but placements were a bit dubious. A lot of the rock is breakable and consists of horizontal layers, not the vertical solid granite cracks I am more familiar with. To my great disappointment, we did not find the summit register. [photo]ThemoveontheGreyBand.jpg[caption]The move on the Grey Band[/photo]

The descent was uneventful. We did 7 rappels. We had to sling a precarious boulder for the first one. Not sure why there is not an established rap station right off the summit ridge. Perhaps because the rock is not reliable up there. There are 4 official rap stations with chains on the descent route. Some raps were pretty exciting. The...

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