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Climbing Prestley and Midgard
Timestamp Free: 2018.05.25 - 08:58:26
Ranges: North America Ranges / Columbia Mountains / Selkirk Mountains / Valhalla Ranges
  (3 days)     Elevation Gain: 1728m
Participants: Stefan Feldman, Aaron Hanson, George, Justin Vance
Difficulty: 5: 5.7
A weekend climbing mount Prestley and Midgard
Looking for a place off the beaten path, but with good access for a 2 1/2 day trip we settled on exploring the Prestley area in the Valhalla's. The South ridge of the West Prestley looked attractive from Doug Brown's Bivouac picture and Sandra's description of the access up the overgrown FSR below the Prestley's seemed good (thank you Bivouac). Aaron, Stefan and I left Creston after work on Friday arriving at our destination with a few hours of the day left. The road was overgrown but passable, and the forested slopes above allowed for fairly easy passage. On the way up we flagged the route because George was going to follow us a few hours later. Up into the alpine we settled into an excellent camp in the meadows. [photo]IMG_1382.JPG[caption]Camp in Meadows[/photo]

  George arrived after dark, calling his solo night hike one of the scariest experiences of his life with bears lurking behind every bush! Saturday morning we were up with the sun heading to Prestley's south ridge. George and Stefan roped up ahead of us, while Aaron and I followed. After 30 meters or so I was not enjoying the scruffy nature of the climb and decided to rappel of a horn to look for cleaner pastures elsewhere, while Stefan and George continued up the south ridge. We hiked up a gully under the east face until I saw a feasible line up clean grey granite. Slaby granite has a way of looking much easier than it really is, especially when you are standing right under it. I set off leading the first pitch in my hiking boots deceived as to the true nature of the difficulty. 3/4 up the first pitch on a good ledge the climbing shoes came out of the pack,not so easy after all. A super fun corner lead us onto the face and the end on the first pitch. The second pitch sported a thin crack splitting...

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