Despite these warnings, we followed snow ramps above the meadows and reached the col directly, by keeping right. The route got moderately steep in two places, but wasn't steep enough to need a rope, in our opinion. Summit views on Niobe are very nice, if you get any.
On the way back, we had some extra time, so Helen, Joel, and Ryan decided to waltz up Pelops before descending our ascent route. [photo]IMG_3346b.jpg[caption]Climbers on the snow below the Pelops-Niobe col[/photo]
Day 3 - Alpha
The plan for the next day was to try Alpha via the Matt Gunn route. One of the party decided to stay back and rest, so we were a party of four. We brought one rope, a set of nuts, a handful of draws, and anchor material.
We were able to use the rowboat again. This made the route up to the Russian Army Camp much faster, and downright pleasant--a recommended alternative to the shoreline trail! We took the snow-filled gully to climber's right to exit the bowl, which is long and gets steep near the top. We opted not to rope up for this, though parties with little steep snow experience may want two pickets to pitch it out.
Once on the snowfields on the south side of Alpha, the clouds were quite thick and our visibility... To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)