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1971 traverse of Weart Mountain
Timestamp Free: 2020.08.11 - 22:26:26
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges
  (1 days)     Elevation Gain: 2050m
Participants: Cliff Jennings, Ole Larsen
Difficulty: 4: The trail up was very steep rough. Rope ice axes required for glacier exposed ridge.
Ascent up to Wedgemount Lake cabin. Continued up to col between Mt. Cook & Weart. Up West ridge of Weart & traversed around to main summit. Descended down north side & traversed back to hut.
[photo]Weart02cabinaboveWedgemontLake.jpg[caption]Weart 02 cabin above Wedgemont Lake[/photo]

[photo]Weart03WedgeWedgemontLake.jpg[caption]Weart 03, Wedge & Wedgemont Lake[/photo]

[photo]Weart04OleonWeart.jpg[caption]Weart 04, Ole on Weart[/photo]

[photo]Weart05OleonWeart.jpg[caption]Weart 05, Ole on Weart[/photo]

[photo]Weart06OleonWeart.jpg[caption]Weart 06, Ole on Weart[/photo]

[photo]Weart07OleonWeart.jpg[caption]Weart 07, Ole on Weart[/photo]

[photo]Weart08WedgeOleonPeakofWeart.jpg[caption]Weart 08, Wedge Ole on Peak of Weart[/photo]

[photo]Weart09OleArmchairGlacier.jpg[caption]Weart 09, Ole & Armchair Glacier[/photo]

[photo]Weart10OleArmchairGlacier.jpg[caption]Weart 10, Ole & Armchair Glacier[/photo]

[photo]Weart11CabinaboveWedgemontLake.jpg[caption]Weart 11, Cabin above Wedgemont Lake[/photo]

[photo]WedgeWeart12WedgemontLakecabin.jpg[caption]Weart 12 (Wedgemont Lake & cabin)[/photo]

Ole Larsen & I headed up the steep trail early in the morning finally reaching the cabin by lunchtime. After dropping our heavier packs at the cabin, we went up over Armchair Glacier (roped for crossing the crevasses) to the Western Col, then up to the ridge & traversing to the NE peak & descending down the ridge & back to the cabin where we spent the night with the intention of ascending Wedge the next day (seperate trip report) The scramble up to Armchair Glacier was tough but easy for route finding to get to an access onto the ice. We roped up at that point & belayed over the bergschrund to get onto the rock below the...

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