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Historic Ascent of Wedge Mountain North Arete
Timestamp Free: 2020.07.15 - 04:33:09
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges
  (2 days)     Elevation Gain: 2100m
Participants: Klaus Haring, Julian Lash, Bob Roach, Randal Wood
Difficulty: 3: Glacier travel on steep crevassed terrain
Ascent of Wedge Mountain North arete, descent via west ridge
[photo]img048.jpg[caption]Our route went from below the big rock outcrop diagonally up to the left to the lower snowy part of the arete.[/photo] See large photo Historic View of Wedgemount Glacier.

The photo was made later in summer from the west ridge of Mount Cook.

In 1980 I put Wedge Mountain North arete on the ACC Vancouver section climbing schedule. I wrote it up for the Echoes. I still had my draft, so here it is:

On the first warm days of summer the party quickly grew to ten. Then some rain and the phone stopped ringing. Finally a flood of cancellations. Friday night the party was down to five, including 3 maybes. I should have canceled, or so I thought as I drove to Whistler with only one passenger. The rain grew harder on the trail. "How are your new boots, Julian?" "Oh, just fine!" No excuse there either. The rain changed to snow at timberline, then stopped as we reached the hut. Slowly it cleared a little. Later Bob and Randall arrived. Now we at least had two ropes, maybe we could do some climbing after all.

Early Sunday morning the clouds still hung low above the hut and I went back to sleep. Then at six a shout "its clearing, there is sun on Wedge!" This was not confirmed, but we got up reluctantly. While we got ready it was indeed clearing rapidly and by eight it was cloudless. The north face of Wedge was gleaming in winter splendor. Unfortunately the unconsolidated snow was not frozen and trail breaking was very tough. On some steep sections I sank in over my knees and while the others made encouraging comments about my efforts I wondered whether conditions were bad enough to warrant turning around. But it was too nice a day to give up so easily. Near the top of the icefall, after negotiating some thin crevasse bridges,...

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