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Wedge Mountain - Northeast Arete
Timestamp Free: 2020.08.11 - 16:15:12
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges
  (1 days)     Elevation Gain: 2132m
Participants: Shawn and Laura Jones
Difficulty: 3: Steep exposed snow climbing, helmets, ice axe, helmets and ropes used.
Snow climb up Wedge Mountain via the NE Arete in spring conditions.
My husband and I had decided to make an attempt on Wedge Mountain this spring, we first became interested in this mountain after climbing Mount Cook last summer and looking over at Wedge's beauty from the summit of Mount Cook. The Wedge area is one of the, if not the most beautiful places either of us has ever been and we had heard the NE Arete on Wedge is one of BC's most scenic climbs. We decided spring would be a good time to climb the mountain, we attempted this mountain a little earlier this spring, but turned around just before gaining the arete because we were unsure of the snow conditions.

We arrived at the Wedgemount Lake parking lot on Friday evening (May 6) and planned to climb overnight hoping to reach the summit on Saturday morning. We began hiking in trail runners (anything you can do to limit time in mountaineering boots is huge) and were able to hike in them for about the first 1/3 where snow began. The Wedgemount Lake trail appears to be melting out quickly. Through the forest the snow is quite patchy, lots of bare patches, some ice, some firm snow and some weak snow we were post holing in. Once getting out of the forest and to the final steep slope before the lake everything is covered with snow and conditions were good overnight.

We took a short break at the Wedgemount Lake hut, had some 5 hour energy and headed across the campsite to the toe of the glacier. At the glacier we donned helmets, crampons and harnesses and roped up. Crossing the lower glacier we did not encounter any crevasses, the glacier just looks like a snowfield right now and conditions were good overnight, we post holed a little at first, but the snow soon became hard packed and the crampons were very useful.

Arriving below the arete, the place we had previously...

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