We arrived at the Wedgemount Lake parking lot on Friday evening (May 6) and planned to climb overnight hoping to reach the summit on Saturday morning. We began hiking in trail runners (anything you can do to limit time in mountaineering boots is huge) and were able to hike in them for about the first 1/3 where snow began. The Wedgemount Lake trail appears to be melting out quickly. Through the forest the snow is quite patchy, lots of bare patches, some ice, some firm snow and some weak snow we were post holing in. Once getting out of the forest and to the final steep slope before the lake everything is covered with snow and conditions were good overnight.
We took a short break at the Wedgemount Lake hut, had some 5 hour energy and headed across the campsite to the toe of the glacier. At the glacier we donned helmets, crampons and harnesses and roped up. Crossing the lower glacier we did not encounter any crevasses, the glacier just looks like a snowfield right now and conditions were good overnight, we post holed a little at first, but the snow soon became hard packed and the crampons were very useful.
Arriving below the arete, the place we had previously... To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)