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Folly on Bears Folly
Timestamp Free: 2018.10.19 - 05:21:30
Ranges: North America Ranges / Quebec-Labrador Ranges
  (1 days)     Elevation Gain: 240m
Participants: Len Zedel and Kevin Le Morzadec.
Difficulty: 4: We found a class 4 route and then rappelled down. Loose rock and difficult route finding made this a challenging outing. If you were possessed to repeat this trip be sure you have good rope handling and mountaineering skills.
An exploratory rappel looking for a good multi-pitch climb on the Avalon Peninsula. We encounter less than ideal conditions: rain, limited visibility, and loose rock.
[photo]Bears_folly2.jpg[caption] Bears Folly; arrows show our route up and down the face.[/photo]

From the very first time I saw Bears Folly I was tempted by the potential for a great climb. About 15 years ago myself and Darryl attempted to climb the face bottom up; we encountered loose rock, difficulty finding anchor placements and we bailed after getting no more than 10 m up. Without good protection we weren't climbing that face (never mind the loose rock). So then a few weeks before the trip described in this report, I was chatting with Kevin, a graduate student in the Physics department who is seriously into climbing. Kevin mentioned that people had been putting routes up in the Swift Current area and that he had set his eye on Bears Folly because he thought that it might offer an exciting multi-pitch climb. I explained my previous experience but now, armed with a hammer drill, I was game to give it another try and so, a trip to Bears Folly was planned.

Weather in Newfoundland is fickle. And my ability to free up weekend days equally so. So as fate would have it, on the day we had elected as possible for our climb, the forecast was poor with rain anticipated at least in the morning. It's worth pointing out that Kevin has a bit of a hard-ass climbing reputation (including an iceberg or two) and he's not fazed by climbing in the rain. I can't count myself as a hard-ass but I spin climbing in bad weather as a great training opportunity especially if you like mountaineering. So, Kevin was most pleased when I was keen to head out and 8:00 saw us pulling out of St. John's on what's locally known as the TCH (Trans Canada Highway).

People slag the weather office for getting the forecast wrong a lot of the time in Newfoundland. But to give them their due,...

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