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Walsh Steele Donjek; climb, ski, walk, float
Timestamp Free: 2018.07.22 - 16:08:30
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Saint Elias Mountains / Icefield Ranges
  (13 days)
Participants: Jeff Crompton, Graham Kraft, Adrien Gilbert, Flavien Beaud hard
Flew up to Walsh Plateau, climbed and skied Mount Walsh and Mount Steele, skied and walked out the Donjek Glacier, finished with a packraft out the Donjek river.
On May 15, we flew up from Kluane Lake with pilot Thom of Icefields Discovery. The group was myself (Jeff Crompton), Flavien Beaud, Adrien Gilbert, and Graham Kraft ( It took two flight to get the four of us in. There was forest fire haze in the air, unseasonably warm temperatures (freezing line getting above ~3000m in May), and not a cloud in the forecast for the foreseeable future. We landed below the Northwest ridge of Mount Walsh, and went for a nice evening tour.

The next day we decided to take a leisurely start up Walsh, thinking that it would be good acclimatization for Steele, it didn't look so big after all. But the scale is deceiving up there. We had a really nice climb up the NW ridge, which is a bit exposed in sections. We had to use snow protection on one ~60m section. We also found and kept a picket at the end of the ridge. The ridge ended up taking way longer than expected. After the ridge, it's a long walk to the summit. AG and I crapped out with altitude around ~4250m, but GK and FB carried on to the summit. We skied back down (had to walk to ridge) and arrived at camp around 11:00pm. In hindsight, we should have properly acclimatized, and we underestimated the amount of time that we would spend at altitude. [photo]walsh_NWridge2.jpg[caption]Looking at the NW ridges on Walsh[/photo]

[photo]climbingdownNWridgeofWalsh.jpg[caption]Climbind down a NW ridge on Walsh[/photo]

The following day, FB and I went for a really nice and recommended tour up Jedken. This would be a great option for day 1 acclimatizing! The next two days were spent heading up the Walsh plateau, up and over the "fucking hill", which looks small but is really quite a big knoll at 4300m.

May 20th, we started up Southeast face of Steele. There...

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