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Habrich Ascent via new route "Escape Velocity"
Timestamp Free: 2018.06.17 - 15:07:50
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges
  (1 days)
Participants: Kirsten and Brett Logan
Difficulty: 5: 7 pitches up to 5.9
Cousins make ascent of a new route on Habrich's NW face
In 2013 Jeremy Frimer and Matt parker put up Escape Velocity.

The Topo can be found here:

Kirsten and I had been meaning to get into the alpine together for awhile and this seemed like an enjoyable 1-day objective. She drove her fiance's brand-new Jeep Wrangler up the Shannon Creek FSR which was like being in Jurassic Park. That truck can bomb over anything.

We parked at the yellow gate 1km away from the top of the gondola and started hiking at 10:30am (The anti-alpine start). Upon reaching the gondola trails, the most direct way to access Habrich is via the Sky Pilot Valley trail. At this trail's terminus, the Habrich Climber's Access trail goes left steeply uphill (straight heads into the basin N of Sky Pilot). All told it took us 2h15 to get to the col, and base of the route, from the gates.

We roped up and quickly found out that a large part of this rock climbing route was actually hiking/scrambling. Pitch two was definitely the crux - a lovely razor sharp 5.9 corner which Kirsten led masterfully. From there we scrambled pitches 3 and 4, then swung leads for pitches 5-7. The route took us about 2h45 up, and is an excellent route to practice multipitch climbing.

To descend we rappelled pitch 7, downclimbed on heather slopes around difficulties on pitch 6; Rappelled pitch 5; downclimbed pitch 4; rappelled pitch 3; then were able to rappel from the anchors of pitch two with a 70m rope onto the traverse ledge of pitch 1, then step off from there.

With a bit of route searching and a lot of bush thrashing you could probably downclimb unroped (or upclimb) the entire face, but to us rappelling seemed like a fine option. We then retraced our steps to the jeep, although if you...

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