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Climb Slalok and over to Tszil
Timestamp Free: 2020.03.31 - 17:27:32
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Lillooet Ranges / Joffre Group
  (2 days)
Participants: 3
Difficulty: 3: PD / Class 3
Ascent of Stonecrop face of Slalok, descent via the West Ridge and over Tszil.
We arrived at the Joffre Lakes parking lot at about noon on Saturday June 27, and reached the lakes after a couple of hours hiking. Camping at the lakes is very popular apparently and there were no available spots close to the lake left at that time, so we hiked onward. We followed the Tzil trail for about half an hour and camped next to a stream just north of the toe of a large moraine coming down from the west side of the valley below Tzil.

Most of the bottom half of the Stonecrop face glacier has melted since the photos in 'Alpine Select' were taken it seemed, so we found a route up the west side of Slalok a few hundred metres up the valley from our camp. We scrambled up loose rock leading to some 3rd class rock, moving to the right up the slope below the waterfall visible from the valley. Continuing up (maybe a total of an hour from our camp) put us right on the Stonecrop glacier face probably about halfway up the section that still had snow.

Staying to the climber's right on the face allowed us to avoid crevasses and ice, the snow was in fine shape and not very steep so no protection was needed. We summited at 0930.

After surveying our options we decided to take the West Ridge descent route, in retrospect it would have been much faster and easier to reverse the climb. The descent was 3rd/4th class with 2 rappels, with the most challenging portion being a short but exposed traverse from the summit down to the first portion of the ridge. After the ridge we hiked up Tzil, then down it's west side eventually finding a trail, walking along the moraine and back to camp. I think we made it back to camp at about 1700 as our descent was very slow. [photo]camp.jpg[caption]Our...

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