1230am - Finished my UBC assignment and started packing
200am - Leaving Port Moody (Greater Vancouver) heading for Wedgemount Trailhead
500am - Start hiking up to Wedge. Parking lot is at 800m and showed no signs of snow. With skis on my back and headlamp on I hiked up in runners for about 600m, then put on my ski boots and crampons for another 400m or so. Crampon were essential on the icy trail. Didn't start skinning until about 1700M, were you pop out of the forest into the obvious avalanche chute. Nearly 1000m of hiking! Trail is well marked all the way. A short skin brought me to BCMC hut.
830am - Stash a victory beer at the hut. My hydration system was to only bring a liter nalgene and a small butane stove; melt snow as I go. Problem was I grabbed an empty fuel canister! When I realized my mistake I had about a 300ml to last me until I dropped down into the treeline that has running water. At least I still had that beer!
From the hut I made my way across Wedgemount lake and up the Wedge glacier, sticking to the climbers left side. The glacier was nicely filled in and you'd have to try really hard to fall into a crevasse. When I was nearing the base of Mount Wedge I started to go east, towards the North Arete. About 150m from the terminal end of the Arete I bootpacked up a short couloir and gained the thin ridge
1100am - At the start of the North Arete. Exposure was wild along the ridge, but nothing overly technical. Was happy with crampons over ski boots and one ice axe. The crux finish just below the summit ridge looked a lot more intimidating from the glacier below, but was not too bad. However in firmer, icier conditions I would want to have a second tool. Took my time along the Arete, enjoying the exposure and great views... To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
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