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Pigeon Spire (West Ridge 5.4) after work with a Brazilian
Timestamp Free: 2019.04.19 - 12:58:32
Ranges: North America Ranges / Columbia Mountains / Purcell Mountains / Bugaboo Group
  (2 days)
Participants: Chris Daniel, Jason Orr, Alex Joseph
Difficulty: 5: 5.4, II, trad (glacier travel)
A quick blast up West Ridge of Pigeon Spire in the Bugaboos after work from Calgary.
Well the Spring and early Summer had gone so well for Chris and I that it seemed only appropriate to get to the Bugaboos. My second time (Kain route on Bugaboo in 2004) but first for Chris or as we call him "Jahnny". Jahnny was commuting on a weekly basis from Halifax to Calgary and back. He lived in Halifax while his wife was doing her residency. He was trying to finish a PhD and was putting in a week of work in Calgary in between 10 day stints in Halifax. So we were climbing like fiends. We hadn't had this much time on the rock since our days at UBC in the 90s.

My good work buddy Jason was also hooked and since he grew up in Brazil, the Rockies and now snow and glaciers was pretty new. In fact, he really had never been on snow other than a few times in Calgary that winter. Jason had climbed outdoors once prior to this outing. I think we did a multi-pitch route on Kid Goat. He is an athlete though and keen so why not go to the Patagonia of the North!

We decided to leave Calgary after work on Friday. The plan was to be on the road by 5pm but it was 8pm by the time we left Taco Bell on 16th Ave. We reached Brisco at around 10:30pm and it was harder than I remembered to find the right logging road in the dark. A few wrong turns and we finally figured it out and navigated my old '88 Camry at a speed far faster than the suspension was used to all the way to the parking lot. To our surprise we weren't the only ones gearing up for the hike at 1am. A guy arrived on his second trip from the parking lot that night. He had taken one load to the hut earlier that evening and was coming back to reload for a middle of the night trek up again. We put the chicken wire around the tires and were off with head lamps on.

It was enjoyably cool and although I knew what the trail and...

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