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Interpretation of Daltons 1907 First Ascent Route Up Mount Garibaldi
Timestamp Free: 2018.12.19 - 01:32:18
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges
  (8 days)
Here is a challenge for you mountain historians. Study Dalton's trip report of the first ascent of Mount Garibaldi and figure out if I have estimated his route correctly.

As you may know, the article was first published in the Canadian Alpine Journal in 1908, page 205-211. By studying the article, I was able to get enough clues to put "date headings" into the article, to make it easier for us to discuss. I also studied the report to come up with a few crude waypoints. Here is a link to the annotated article.

The First Ascent of Mount Garibaldi by A. T. Dalton.

The first thing to figure out was that Dalton's Tsee-Ki river was the Cheekeye river. "Tsee" is pronounced "Chee" and the "Ki" is pronounced "keye". At the start of "Day 2" he says:

...following the Tsee-Ki whose source is in Garibaldi's glaciers.

I put the location of the "old log house" as being somewhere north of the Cheekeye River, because I don't think they could cross and recross the river.

So that means they went up the north side of the river until they started to enter the canyon, about noon. They then climbed out of the canyon on their left, which would be the north side. Here's what he says:

By noon we reached a place where the way by the stream was barred and we were obliged to begin the ascent by a ridge on the left. And now our toils commenced. For 1,000 feet we had some very awkward rockwork made risky by loose fragments; and beyond this, a laborious grind of 5,000 feet up a wooded slope at an angle of 45 degrees.

The distances and heights in his report are somewhat exaggerated, since he has the summit at 10,000 feet, and also says they followed the Cheekeye for 25 miles. The true height of Garibaldi is 8800'.

The next thing you can match up is the...

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