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Rumbling Glacier High Route to Mount Tantalus SE Face
Timestamp Free: 2020.10.25 - 12:54:08
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges
  (3 days)
Participants: Paul Kubik, Chris Kubinski
Difficulty: 4: Long approach carrying overnight gear and glacier travel gear. Some steep snow and ice requiring front pointing later in the summer. Class 3 or 4 rock up the SE face of Tantalus.
A climb of Mount Tantalus approaching from the Rumbling Glacier on a high route along the east side of Dione's SE ridge.
This gem of a route was used to avoid a couple of bergschrund problems on the standard Dione Glacier approach to the SE face route on Mount Tantalus. The trip was twenty-two years ago. As it was never written up before I had to check some of the facts with Chris. His wife was able to pinpoint the weekend. It's funny how a woman has a memory of these things.

The trip occurred Labour Day weekend in 1989. We crossed Squamish River in a canoe, shouldered packs and reached our high camp just above Red Tit hut and near where the more recent Jim Haberl hut is located. Modern climbers just charter a helicopter ride to the hut and are there ten minutes from Squamish airport.

The weather was clear and warm the whole trip. On Sunday we started from camp around 7 AM and returned after summiting Tantalus reaching camp around 5 PM. Our route diverged from the standard route by crossing Dione's SE ridge a short distance from the hut. I think we used the same col on the Tantalus Range ski traverse in 1997. Shortly before reaching the base of the SE face, the ice steepened and we began front pointing around a couple of ice bulges. It brought us to the SE face and we scrambled to the summit from there.

On Monday, we returned. [photo]03Tantalus.jpg[caption]Route in upper left - July 1991 (Steve Grant photo).[/photo]
  [photo]Tantalus-Rumbling3.jpg[caption]Route in red - June 1996 (Jos Van der Burg photo).[/photo]

I haven't seen this approach to the SE face written up anywhere. It's not in McLane's Alpine Select (2001) climber's guide. Our route avoids a couple of messy bergschrund problems with the standard approach route to Tantalus - the first one getting off Dione Glacier up the gully and the second descending from Dione's SE ridge to get onto...

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