"From somewhere north of Donelly Cr. to N of the 8000 ft massif of "Face Mountain", Cross to W side of divide and traverse to pass E of Samson. Climb to objective's S ridge, crossing a high col here to glacier to SW side. Ascend this and a 400 ft gully, scrambling up face beyond to summit ridge. Peak is on the S end of the ridge. The climbing is not very difficult, but the trip is a strenuous day return from road."
The west fork of Doneley creek is referred to as "Freight Creek", and I remember this name being in use on a trip led by Klaus in 1992. It was the last BCMC trip for Bob and Jenny Kovak, a young couple who died a couple of weeks later in an avalanche in the Ape Lake region. The glacier coming down from Faceless is the Freight Glacier. Therefore the route looks quite practical even today, although I would say it is at least 2 days.
From the map, you can also see another similar route: to go up the upper west branch of Donelly Creek (labelled "Donelly" on the map, and end up at the present day Semaphore Lakes, then climb the glacier south of Face and then traverse over Faceless in a NW direction, descending from the NW ridge of Faceless and into Sampson Creek. And then follow the same route as above. This would have the advantage of using the Semaphore Lakes trail, but involve uncertainties descending from... To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
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