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Quest for Mount Sampson Part 3: Success
Timestamp Free: 2020.02.22 - 03:25:44
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Bridge-Lillooet Divide / Sampson Group
  (1 days)     Elevation Gain: 1700m
Participants: Klaus Haring
Difficulty: 3: Exposed scrambling
A historic report of a daytrip to Mount Sampson from the south
In 1983 I had put Mt Sampson on the ACC climbing schedule for early July. We drove to the top of the road and climbed through the, at that time of year mosquito infested forest. Where do these pests breed on a steep dry hillside? One girl was particularly allergic to their bites, her bare skin was covered with the biggest red bumps I have ever seen. Above treeline the meadows were yellow with a riot of avalanche lilies as far as you could see. There was no flat place to camp until we reached the ridge, by which time we were partly in the clouds. Some of us set up our tents on the snow, while other tried to terraform the rocky terrain. [photo]s1.jpg[caption]Ascending the meadows into the clouds. Lillooet River below.[/photo]
  [photo]s2.jpg[caption]Camp in fog on Zorah's SE ridge[/photo]

On Sunday morning we woke in dense fog and nobody was eager to get up early. During a late breakfast we discussed whether it was worthwhile to grope our way closer to the mountain. Then the fog lightened and suddenly Mt Sampson gleamed wintry white against a blue sky. We quickly got ready and rushed toward the mountain. In the excitement I forgot to take a picture. The sucker hole did not last long. By the time we reached the glacier the peak was in the cloud and at about 8000' so were we and it began to snow. At that elevation the snow was becoming too hard to kick steps easily. There was not much rock above us and it was becoming covered with snow. We had iceaxes but without crampons it was becoming risky. Because of this and the late hour we admitted defeat after a short uncomfortable lunch rest.

After that attempt, and the Easter blizzard attempt with R Tivy, Mt Sampson became number one on our most wanted list, but it was not until Sept. 1984 that we planned another...

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