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Mount Sampson 1980's Route from the South
Timestamp Free: 2020.02.22 - 02:30:33
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Bridge-Lillooet Divide / Sampson Group
Participants: Robin Tivy, Steve Grant
Difficulty: 3: A steep slope on the way in could be a problem in bad avalanche conditions. The peak itself is just a long dramatic scramble, with no hard moves or exposure.
The historic route to Sampson used in the 1980's, as based on several old topo maps.
In the early 80's, there was a bunch that all wanted to be the first of the gang up Sampson, and so made several trips in marginal weather before anyone had success. This report is a reconstruction of the basic route Steve and I used in the 1980's to climb Sampson. In order to verify where the car started from, I also referred to two other maps for two other trips in the same years. The other trips were by Klaus and myself, and then yet another trip by Brian Waddington and party. The route was reconstructed from 3 different paper topo maps. In those days, people kept records of all their trips on their faithful paper topo map, and everyone's 92 J/11 had a lot of lines on it from various dates. In addition to trips, people used to mark where the roads went.
So here's the three references, from 3 different trips:
1. Steve Grant line on his topomap.
2. An old line I had on my topo map from an attempt I made with Klaus Haring
3. A route drawn on Brian Waddington's map, going to the summit via the S ridge.
All of the old lines on the historical topomaps seem to show driving to 4100' on what I now call the "Upper Zorah branch". From there, they all show going more or less straight up to get onto the southeast ridge of Zorah. Once on the ridge, they contour northward toward the peak of Zorah, then down off the SE ridge of Zorah, at about 6900'. (Steve and I camped on this ridge). My line from the Klaus trip shows us going higher that time, almost to the summit of Zorah, and then coming down. By either route, this is the crux slope after a heavy snow. On the 4 day trip I did with Klaus, we avoided it on our retreat by going down into Deliah Creek. see Sampson Attempt with Klaus.
Once you get down off Zorah, the route is to traverse northeast along...
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