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A New Route on Peak Spring-Rice S2
Timestamp Free: 2018.01.22 - 08:22:04
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges
  (1 days)     Elevation Gain: 1010m
Participants: Jeff Dickson, Enrique Canto, Dan Kim, Rick Collier
Difficulty: 5: Technical rock climbing, with considerable exposure, to 5.8
This report details the development and ascent of a new route up Spring-Rice S2
On August 2, Jeff Dickson and I had performed a rather strenuous rekky of a peak known locally as Rice Brook Peak and in Bivouac as Peak Spring-Rice S2. It is a substantial mountain (9918'), rising some 3300' from the valley floor of South Rice Brook and presenting rather intimidating walls on three sides of its summit block. The only route up Spring-Rice S2 is on the N side and is rated at about 5.2 by the first (and perhaps only) ascent party, who termed the route 'chossy and unpleasant',

This was supposed to be something of a rest day for this aging mountaineer, but it turned out to be rather more than that. Jeff and I hustled up the familiar headwall and then struck out across the lower South Rice Glacier for the SE slopes of our objective. Suffice it to say at this point that we laid in a route that spiraled up and around Spring-Rice S2 clockwise (to the south) and eventually brought us up against some quite serious technical climbing on the west exposure of the summit block. Having brought along little in the way of gear and running short of time (we had started late in the morning), we reluctantly abandoned a summit attempt, vowing (well, with reservations on my part because of my somewhat deficient technical skills) to return later that week.

We descended the slopes to the SW, slopes that alternated easy scree and scrambling with more demanding cliff bands lower down; eventually we reached the South Rice Brook Valley and made our way back SE to the ACC camp.

Three days later, on August 5, Jeff had organized a climbing team that he felt had a good chance of ascending the walls of the summit block of Spring-Rice S2; unbeknownst to me, they had deputized me as a somewhat hesitant fourth for this party of three. Ah well, nothing ventured, nothing gained, I...

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