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Weart - Southeast Ridge (with deviation from Gunn route)
Timestamp Free: 2020.08.11 - 20:49:23
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges
  (1 days)     Elevation Gain: 960m
Difficulty: 3: Easy class 3 scramble, with short, moderate Class 3 section at summit. Routfinding.
Matt Gunn route with a small deviation
This was a short daytrip from Wedgemont Lake. We followed the Matt Gunn route with a minor variation to find an easier way up onto the SE ridge.

We set off from the hut and walked along the left (North) side to the Wedgemont Glacier. After walking a short distance beside the glacier, we left the glacier (which turns south) and ascended snow slopes to the east up into a basin.

From the basin we turned north east and ascended a steeper snow slope up to an upper basin just south of Weart. The basin sits just below the SE ridge. So far we had followed Matt's route without deviation.

The Gunn route description then says "scramble up on the left side of the cliffs and follow a ramp that leads back to the right to the ridge crest."

After observing Matt's route, we decided there was a much easier way up onto the SE ridge. We basically turned right and headed in a South Easterly direction (to the right of the cliffs mentioned in Matt's description) up towards a lower point on the ridge. Since we were walking away from the summit, we were going slightly out of our way. However a gentle snow slope led all the way up to a col on the SE ridge and we hiked up to this point on the ridge very quickly (wearing crampons).

From this point is was basically a gentle hike up to the south ridge of Weart. There was quite a lot of snow on the south ridge, and the final section required following a minor arret to the top. This last part was steep and felt a little exposed, so we used our axes for safety.

In summary, I would judge that our route was much easier than the Gunn route and would take only slightly more time. However there was lots of snow around when we did it, and this made our route very easy (no boulder fields). Without the snow, I cannot say for certain how hard...

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