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King George 2010 via Fynn Creek
Timestamp Free: 2020.08.11 - 09:04:59
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges / Royal Group
  (3 days)     Elevation Gain: 2090m
Participants: Mitch Thornton, R Katrin Olivaw
Difficulty: 3: A snow plod, but steep to 45 degrees. The same steep snow-slope must be down-climbed.
Alpine climb of Mt King George S Face. 1 moderate day for approach hike, with some light bushwhacking. A beautiful 3-star bivi site. Climb & return to camp in 10 hours. Lazy hike out on day 3
The week prior to the planned climb, I hiked the Fynn Creek trail with a chainsaw & buffed it up until I ran out of gas at km 3. When we returned the next week, we brought some wire-rope to make the log-bridge across the Palliser River somewhat safer, all in consideration of planned use this bridge many times in the future.

Past km3, there is some light bushwhacking, but we kept going straight until reaching a natural opening beneath the valley-end cliffs. We followed the clearing up to the right (easy) until below more cliffs, whee we picked up a flagged trail heading to the right. Another pleasant hour up this and we reached the glacial moraine at 2165m. This is a nice spot to camp if your objective is the very beautiful Mt. Prince Albert (mtn id 825)

Bear west across the lateral moraine & eyeball the route across a hanging valley, traversing below some cliffs following a rough trail & loosing 100m in elevation. Follow the trail steeply up at the left end of the cliffs, and emerge at treeline to a 3-star bivi. [photo]KG_camp.jpg [caption]King George campsite[/photo]

In the morning we followed the creek up the valley, and reached the terminus of the glacier after about 1-1/2 of easy walking, gaining 300m. Bearing directly north for another 750m, look up and scope out the traverse ledge that crosses right to left to the upper S face. That's the route (see photo essay). At the base of a 30 degree snow gully, we put on the crampons & were soon at the col between Princess Mary & King George. A big scree slope heads straight up to the north, and it looks fearsome... but maybe we are getting good a scree-bashing, and it wasn't so bad. [photo]KG_col.jpg [caption]King George Princess Mary col[/photo]

At the top of the scree, we screwed up (OK, I screwed up),...

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