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Dreadnought via North Face
Timestamp Free: 2018.10.19 - 16:15:02
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges / Dreadnought Group
  (2 days)
Participants: Serguei Okountsev, Jeff Han
Difficulty: 5: Steep snow, ice, exposure, cornice, three creek crossings.
First ascent of Dreadnought north face.
[photo]IMG_1676.jpg[caption]First ascent of Dreadnought North Face[/photo]

Day 1: Followed old logging road, crossing on foot Watersprite creek. Contoured the obvious hill from north. We marked the contour part with red trail marker tape. Crossed Paranoid Creek twice. Camped on the north side of Dreadnought.

Day 2. Get up at 03:00 a.m. Climbed unroped the couloir following the ice chute which steepens at the end. Set up belay station and traversed approximately 20m below overhang cornice to its thinner part and then cut the hole with snow shovel. After short walk to the summit returned via east gully to camp. Back at the car at 20:00.

[photo]993.jpg[caption]Ice chute.[/photo]

Jeff asks if we should start placing protection. I look at his face to see if he is serious. I can not tell. "Just for photos", he says, but I am not sure. Sun is getting out and we have to hurry, placing pro will rob us precious time. [photo]989.jpg[caption]Traverse to the right.[/photo]
  Let's get to business. Traversing below overhang cornice above warming rock and 200 m drop. Jeff is now happy that we didn't bring seven pickets for nothing. Me too. [photo]987.jpg[caption]On the traverse[/photo]
  The mountain accepted us like tired mother watching two silly kid brothers playing in the pool and being late for supper. Still, she put Jeff to real test on that ice chute and he had to pass it. There was only one acceptable score.

I still see it the way I saw it, in slow motion. His short scream "wa!", his only ax is in the air above his head as if he lost his balance. I can only see his upper body from my platform above. He is on his way to the platform but he is sliding down. He is unroped and snow...

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