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Gmoser Route on Mount Louis
Timestamp Free: 2020.05.26 - 23:35:50
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Front Ranges / Sawback Range / Mystic Range
  (1 days)
Participants: Florian
Difficulty: 3: III, 5.8
The Gmoser route on Mt. Louis takes a nice line up the middle-right of the south face, joining the upper parts of the Kain route to finish
I've long had the Gmoser route on my list, and with Florian keen to get some experience on longer rock routes we teamed up to try the climb. I was looking forward to a route that had more technical difficulties and (theoretically) more route-finding challenges than other routes I'd done to date in the Rockies.

We bivvied in the parking lot, got up early and started hiking (counter-clockwise along the Cory Pass loop trail). After taking a wrong turn, we were treated to a great view of our objective. [px]louis-south-face.jpg[c]Mount Louis in the morning] See Mount Louis Sunrise.

Expecting the route to be approximately as described in Doughterty's "Alpine Climbs", we brought pitons + hammers along with our rack. Unfortunately, Mark Klassen had recently taken it upon himself to bolt a series of rap/belay stations about 45m apart up the route, taking away any route finding difficulties one might have. Someone has also placed a few protection bolts to lead the way. Although this distracts from the "adventure" somewhat, the route started out great and only got better. [photo]florian-p4.jpg [caption]Florian on pitch 4, which gets to the base of the corner.[/photo]

Some low-angle slabs, gullies and ledges start the first few pitches up to the base of the signature corner, which shows up well in the south face overview photo above. This is a great, solid corner as promised in Doughterty's description and features a few fixed pins. [px]gmoser-crux.jpg[c](Photo by Florian) Climbing the crux pitch in glorious weather[/px] Mount Louis: Gmoser Crux.

[photo]gmoser-flo-crux.jpg [caption]Florian following.[/photo]

After this pitch you go up for a ways (30m?) and then start crossing ribs and gullies to climber's left; although it looks...

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