Bivouac.com   Trip Page   Home     Help   Index     Login
Wedge Mt. via north-east arete (in a day)
Timestamp Free: 2020.07.15 - 05:01:52
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges
  (1 days)     Elevation Gain: 2126m
Participants: An intrepid group of trusted friends, but can also be done as a straight-forward/low risk solo trip.
Difficulty: 3:
Climb of Wedge Mt. via north east arete as a day trip - a classic west coast climb.
- This is a classic, but moderate, coastal mountain climb with stellar views, few hazards and straight-forward access that is easily done as a day trip, or can be done over 2 days with a camp at Wedgemount Lake.

- Follow well marked, albeit steep, trail from parking lot at ~ 770 m to Wedgemount Lake hut at ~ 1918 m (we departed parking lot at midnight and took 3 hrs to hut with day packs).

- Traverse along north side of Wedgemount Lake (note winter/spring avy hazard from above off Mt. Weart) to toe of Wedgemont Glacier.

- Ascend Wedgemount Glacier bearing left to Wedge/Weart col and then right onto arete.

- Traverse along north-east arete to summit at 2899 m ( we were on top at 8:30 am - 5 1/2 hrs from Wedgemount Lake hut).

- Descend via col at base of arete; traverse above seracs (beware here as there was clear evidence of recent ice fall down the middle of the wall); then down north-west ice wall (we had a nap at the hut for a few hours and were then back to the car by 4:30 pm for a 24 km return trip).

[photo]Westface.jpg[caption]North-west face Wedge Mt.[/photo]

[photo]AscenttoWedge_Weartcol1.jpg[caption]Ascent route to Wedge/Weart col[/photo]

[photo]North-eastarete1.jpg[caption]North-east arete[/photo]

[photo]Finalpush.jpg[caption]Final portion of arete[/photo]

[photo]Finalplodtosummit.jpg[caption]Final plod to summit[/photo]

[photo]Icefalldescent1.jpg[caption]Descent route via ice fall[/photo]

[photo]Routetopomap.jpg[caption]Route...

To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)