Shortly after noon on Thursday, we stopped for a rest along the west shore of Lake Magog, where we met many people going by on the trail in both directions, including several destined for the climbers' hut that we had intended to use as a base for our attempt to climb the mountain--obviously not an original idea!
After counting a tenth climber on his way to the hut, we decided that our original plan would no longer work for us with so many people likely partying, snoring, and rattling around in the hut, so we decided to camp by the lake and try the climb from there.
We set up our camp in mid-afternoon, and then Bruce and I left our friend to tend it while we went up to explore the route up the headwall in preparation for climbing it in the dark. Then, having it memorized, we returned to the lake for dinner and to try to get to sleep about 6 pm. We rose at midnight, had a quick breakfast, and started out for the big hill at 1:40am, quickly dispatching the headwall and crossing the glacier to the base of the north ridge in the dark. The snow was crunchy underfoot, and so promised to hold rocks in place as we climbed. [photo]assiniboine04rr.jpg[caption] Magog Headwall Route Up Close: Up Snow Zigzag at Right A.H.A.P. Then Rock and Scramble to Top[/photo]
[photo]assiniboine16rr.jpg[caption] The View Above The Headwall (Actually Taken on Descent)[/photo]
The first section above the glacier was a steep scree gully, which we quickly but carefully scrambled up to its apex on top of the ridge; there we moved right... To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
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