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NE Ridge "Morrison Buttress" (aka Tarrant Buttress) Mount Odaray
Timestamp Free: 2018.05.26 - 16:41:56
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges
  (1 days)     Elevation Gain: 1000m
Participants: Tom Wolfe, Bruce Hendricks, Dave McNab
Difficulty: 5: Long, challenging Rockies alpine rock route. IV/D+ 5.8
An amazing line with great positions. But...Larry Stanier (the Lodge's resident guide) says the route is only "Almost worth doing". Indeed the rock quality and climbing leave much to be desired.

From Pushing the Limits by Chic Scott: In 1955 a young British climber came to Canada. He didn't stay long, but during his short time in the Rockies he created quite an impression. Don Morrison was from Sheffield and had learned his climbing in the bold British tradition. In July of 1955 he persuaded Calgary climber Jim Tarrant to join him in a new route up the 1000 metre-high northeast buttress of Mount Odaray. Their route worked its way up what was described as "...endlessly varied horizontally bedded layers. At its best, vertical handjams in the thicker solid layers, and at its worst, like climbing up china cabinets with the doors open." As they rose higher, the ledges became smaller and smaller, and the belays more and more tenuous. Several overhangs provided the most difficult moves of the climb, and at times it was necessary for Morrison to leave his pack behind, then pull it up afterwards. After eleven hours of continuously difficult climbing they reached the summit. Morrison had led throughout and had never placed a single piton. Although the climbing is still graded 5.7, the climbers modestly described their route only as a "...highly interesting and entertaining climb." A few years later, Hans Gmoser more appropriately described the climb as " of the most formidable climbs in the country."

Dougherty's description in general didn't make much sense to us, but the approach beta worked fine. The Green "Rocky Mountains of Canada - South" description on the other hand is vague about where to start and the description of the climbing is quite different from what we experienced. But speaking with several other parties who have climbed a line directly up from the height of land between Morning Glory and Linda...

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