Ever since I'd climbed the Christmas gully on mount Strachan in january, I'd been eyeing this face. Ian and I had been patiently waiting for the right conditions for 2 months, wondering if we would ever have a crack at this climb, when lo and behold, bright sun was forecast for saturday march 30th, 2007.
We quickly concocted a half-assed plan at the last minute. We would head out at 4 am on saturday morning, book it to deeks lake in 2 hours, then make it to the base of the face at 7:30 and be on top before 9. No worries mate!!
The first sign of trouble was that Ian and I are lazy. So much so that by the time we found the trailhead, geared up and started walking, it was 5:30. As we walked up the logging road, seriously overheating, the sky began to light up with the morning sun. We thought we could see a blanket of clouds lingering over Howe Sound, and the stars shimmering above. It looked like a beautiful day in the making. We turned off our headlamps, which was nice except for the fact that we were constantly walking over ruts and puddles on the beat-up road.
We had trouble again as we got off the logging road, as serious amounts of blowdown had us humping huge trees and executing painful limbo-like manoeuvres. After much cursing at the branches that constantly hooked our ice axes as we walked under them, we emerged in the old growth portion of the trail to find the light conditions improving.
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