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North Couloir of Taseko (Right-Hand Direct Variation)
Timestamp Free: 2020.05.31 - 14:22:47
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Chilcotin Ranges
  (3 days)
Participants: Dan Alyward, Forrest Murphy Neve and ice 1400' 50-60 degrees. Mixed terrain to exit couloir.
Ascent of the North Couloir of Taseko via a new right-hand direct variation. The couloir was previously climbed by Don Serl and party via the left-hand start.
For Labor Day I ended up going climbing with Dan and Forrest, two Seattle climbers who had been invited by Don Serl, BC activist and guidebook writer, on a trip into the southern Coastal Ranges... We left Seattle at about 3pm on Thursday afternoon, crammed into the front of my truck. We met Don Serl and his four friends in Hope, where we transferred Dan to Steven's Jeep to make a bit more room in my truck. We carried on driving in the rain to some place beyond Williams Lake, deep in the heart of the Canadian interior. Dan, Forrest and I all managed to sleep in the back of my truck, mainly because they're both quite a bit smaller than I am.

The following morning it was still raining we drove 50 miles down a forest road to the trail into the mountains. Several hours later having driven through huge mud troughs and massively rutted roads, forded a three foot deep river and nearly rolled the Jeep. Having arrived at the drop off point we re-packed and headed off up the nearest valley, bushwacking through fir trees and over heather to get above the tree line. Navigation was difficult as it was now snowing quite hard and we were in fog. After a couple of hours we quit trying to get the whole way in to out original objective and settled for a camp in the valley below Taseko Mountain. The Saturday morning we got up at 5.30 to discover the skies were at least partially clear. With the weather much improved, at least for a short while we opted for an attempt on Taseko Mountain, 10.049'. Having go up at 5.30 we didn't actually leave camp until much later, "The crack of 8am" according to Forrest.

Considering the weather and snow conditions we opted for the least ambitious option which was to climb a variation of the existing line on the face climbed by Don on the last visit....

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