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Me against the Black Tusk
Timestamp Free: 2020.08.11 - 08:44:47
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges
  (1 days)
Difficulty: 2: Mostly trail, one moderately exposed chimney.
A solo ascent of the true summit of the Black Tusk
Strangley I have never been up the Black Tusk yet but done many trips and bagged many peaks around Garibaldi lake. This was going to change but if I was going to do this it had to be the true summit. A rotting narrow spire that stands about 10ft higher than the often visited main summit. My friend Nicole who isn't a climber wanted to give the Tusk a try as well. She actually only planned on going as far as the chimney but with some encouragment would push on to bag the main summit herself. Armed with 20lb's of climbing gear including two ropes we set off at 5.00am for the Microwave Tower road. Well much to our dismay this has a new super heavy duty gate and appears nobody will ever be going up there again. This meant heading back to the super borring slog up from Rubble creek

We set off and were at the Tusk by around 1.00PM. Carefully Nicole and I negotiated the chimmney which was actually much easier than I expected. We pushed on up to the main summit where the fun would begin. Pacing around trying to figure out if I should try and climb the true summit pinaccle it was finnaly go or go down. I finnally gathered up the nerve, ancoured the summmit cairn and went over the edge as crap crashed down all over the place. Down at the base of summit pinacle I carefully scrambled scree and then began to climb a short solo pitch to the summit. I got about 5 feet from the top when it got ugly. Everything I touched was loose and ready to fall down. I climbed far to the climbers right of the spire because the angle looked less steep. The downside to being at the right is the fall!! If I fell it would take me clean of the Tusk, farther to climbers left is steeper but at least the fall would be into the col and perhaps survivabile provided you don't slide all the way down the scree...

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