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Mount Carr in a Day
Timestamp Free: 2018.02.20 - 04:13:50
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges
  (1 days)     Elevation Gain: 2600m
Participants: Ed A Klassen
Difficulty: 3: Parks Trail to Helm Lake then staightforward off trail travel to summit of Carr (no bush). In late season there is a probable moat and berschrund problem. Exceedingly loose class 4 boulders to upper North ridge, then solid class 3 for final 150' to summit.
A description of a day climb of Mt. Carr over Gentian Pk. from Rubble Creek.
This trip was born from on a prior trip to Castletowers in a day and the "need" to complete a long day trip at least once a year. I left the car for Carr at 4am a full hour later then I had hoped for, but somehow did not wake up in time. The cash box at the trailhead also confounded me for a while until I scrounged all my cash to pay the bill. Evidently my offering was enough to keep the threatened tow truck away!

The trail to Taylor Creek campsite cruises just right in the dark and then the Tantalus lights up in the wee hours from the Black Tusk meadows. . Time can be made on this trailed portion and fine early morning vistas are superb. Helm Lake provided coloured excitement, then Gentian Peak and Pass. I repeated the hike up Polemonium Ridge(as per Castletowers route). Here I needed to tape feet in an effort to control hot spots. I had chosen light hikers and not my heavier leather climbing boots as a way to control weight on this long day trek. I taped and taped some more in an effort to keep my feet functional. Good old duct tape! It seemed to do the trick.

From about 7500' on Polemonium Ridge I dropped down to a bench area leading to the glacier I would have to access. This glacier was relatively easy to traverse in a mildly rising tangent towards Mt. Carr. With the light hikers and no crampons I was just able to gain the softer snows above the firn line where the glacier was also flatter. I was hot and tired on this last couple of hours and was concerned the day was getting on! I wrestled with second thoughts about the advisability of continuing. My turn around time of about 2pm was in a race with the my arrival at the peak. However, why come all this way and then turn around 1 hr. from the Peak?! I didn't think I would allow myself to abort now but it...

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