We began by hiking in from Canmore and spent the night at the Alpine Club hut. We approached the mountain, rounded the lake and ascended the escarpment up to the col from the right. By the time we reached the snow in the col, it was easier. We crossed over the snow, making for the ridge which is almost on the right of the triangular mountain. From there, John Peck was leading and we roped up. The snow condition was somewhat like what it was in 1920, so the ridge climb was on rock and snow.
It was an interesting climb, and the view from the top was magnificent. The weather was good and, all around and below us were numerous other peaks in the Rockies. It was very impressive to look down upon them.
We carefully climbed down the same ridge, but the route home was different. When we reached the col, we decided to climb down the snow slope that you see in the centre right of the picture. It was steep. I'm sure we wore crampons, but also we decided that only one person at a time would move, the others dug their ice axes into the snow and prepared for the worst. It was slow going. Eventually we reached the bottom and then walked around the lake on the left back to the... To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
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